Tata Telcoline - LoadBeta - TL 4 X 4

Maintaining the 2.0 TDI Tata Telcoline 4x4. Ok, so you own a Telcoline, or you're thinking about a Telcoline  - otherwise you wouldn't be looking at this web page. This vehicle is a variant of the long running Tata 207 commercial vehicle, made in India. Technically it's similar to other offerings of the era.  In no way could it be called a soft roader or "image vehicle".  Junior (the dog) actually doesn't have a view on the Telco except to say that it's a great ride, and if you mess with it he will more than likely bite you. Seeing as there's virtually no service or aftermarket component information on the web about this vehicle, and having some spare web space going to waste, I thought I might as well share information I've gleaned from seven years ownership of a 1999 Telco 4x4.   My previous ute was a Daihatsu F25 4x4, and in comparison the Tata is quite luxurious and capable.  The no frills little Daihatsu was tough and fun to drive though. I take no responsibility in any way for the accuracy of the following information. All distances and service points are quoted in kilometers (one mile = 1.6 km). Engine Toothed timing belt  - it is CRITICAL that the timing belt is replaced every 50K - there is very little leeway on this service point. The change over point is twice as often as most other Gilmer belt engines. This hard working belt drives the camshaft, fuel injector pump, and the waterpump. If the belt breaks, the motor will be destroyed and the repair cost will be more than the vehicle is worth.  If you purchase a second hand vehicle, ensure proof of timing belt replacement exists.  Dayco PI 136 SP 254H  will fit. Also  Gates Powergrip HTD belt P/N 5049XS-58136 x 1" HSN  is listed. Click here for instructions on timing belt replacement. Timing belt cover spring clip Check the spring clip indicated by the yellow arrow below is correctly seated and secure. If it comes loose and flips back, it can (and will) foul the injector pump throttle linkage in the fully open position, and not allow the throttle to return. This happened to me once, and for a few moments life got very interesting. Water pump  - Replacement is a major job. See the link above detailing timing belt replacement, for location and access. Check that any coolant leakage is not comming from the bottom radiator hose/water pump connection.   This clamp is difficult to access and easily overlooked. If the water pump retaining bolts are not adequately tensioned, cooling fluid can also weep past the sealing gasket. Cooling system air leak  -  indicated by air bubbles in expansion tank and airpocket in top of radiator (no suckback on cooldown). Can be caused by porous cylinder head, leaking cylinder liner or head gasket. ChemiWeld or similar coolant treatment can cure very small leaks. Temperature  - despite the very large radiator and coolant capacity, the turbo engine generates a lot of heat and the temperature can rise noticably in 35+C weather. Fit a "summer" rated thermostat if using in mild to hot conditions. Glow plugs - life span of between 40 and 100k depending on degree of stop/start use. Remove the front two fuel injector lines to replace more easily. Bosch part number  0 250  201 032 11V will replace. Also NGK Y-923U and Denso DG-001 Injectors  - put a 0.25 litre of Redex or proprietry injector cleaner in the tank if vibration becomes noticable. Oil filter - same as for a Peugeot 505 2.5 diesel engine. Ryco list this as Z305 From my experience genuine Tata oil filters are cheaper than aftermarket units. Fuel filter - same unit for pre and final filters. Ryco list a filter for the Safari.  It should fit the Telcoline. Air filter  - as for all turbo engines, it's important that the filter be kept in good order. Ryco list A1580 - cross referenced to 254709132013 and 254709130182. K&N also list E-9033 If the filter becomes significantly blocked, air (and grit) can be sucked in past the turbo oil seals, resulting in abnormal oil consumption and possible turbo bearing failure. The red vacaum indicator on the filter canister gives an indication of filter efficiency at normal operating revs. The filter canister draws cool air from the space behind the two piece plastic mudguard inner liner, and the front headlight.   This area is probably pressurised when the vehicle is moving. Heavily glue/seal the guard liner along the join seam, to reduce the likelihood of dust from the wheel arch being sucked through the gap at very low speed. Turbo  - the KKK04 unit should last the life of the engine with proper vehicle servicing, and a 10 second idle up/down time. Being water cooled and on a diesel engine, a turbo timer is totally unnecessary. Synthetic oil Currently using Caltex Delo 400 15-40 diesel oil. This appears to live up to claims of 8-10% better fuel economy, and a bit more power, due to reduced engine friction. Gives better engine protection and a slightly extended oil change period. Gearbox Gearshift and synchro - can be slow in cold weather until oil warms up. Later boxes used ATF (auto transmission fluid) to improve shift - Dexron 3* or equivalent. Oil type is marked on the box near the filler plug. Non ATF boxes fitted to early models use Castrol VMX - M75W 85 or equivalent.   The drive train - should be very quiet and gear/diff noise non-existent. *Dexron 3 has an SAE rating of approximately 15, a fluidity advantage in cold conditions, and a high temperature viscosity similar to SAE 75-80W transmission oil.   Gearshift lever  - nylon bush at main pivot point will need replacing at about 140k.  Excessive side slop and vertical movement in lever indicates wear. Lever can drop down and disconnect from linkage when wear limit is reached. To fix, lift rubber gearshift boot to access the nylon pivot bush. Disengage linkage, push in retaining tabs and pull gear lever upwards to extract the bush. Be careful not to snap off either of the two retaining tabs when pushing the new bush into place.   Grease the pivot point with waterproof grease before reassembly. The clip on the linkage rod to the front of the gearbox is tricky to remove/replace. Transfer case Change oil - every 20k regardless of use.  Use ATF Dexron 3 or equivalent. Filler/drain plugs - can weep.  Use a liquid thread sealer. Clutch Master cylinder - can be replaced with a generic two bolt unit of the same bore/stroke. Re-use existing activating rod in replacement unit if the end fitting is different.  A reducing adapter is required to connect the fluid line to the generic master cylinder. To remove all air from the fluid line, unbolt the slave cylinder, let it hang vertically and pump fluid up from the bleed nipple.  Still on the original clutch and pressure plate after 170K of city and country driving. Diff Castrol LSX-90 or equivalent suitable for limited slip diff. Page 2